The Proverb of Chhajju’s Choubara

In the past, a saying was a shared legacy among all Indians throughout the Indian subcontinent.

"Jo sukh Chhajju ke chaubare
Oh Balkh na Bukhare"

Indeed, the very Chajju Ka Chaubara has now fallen, leaving only its remnants. It was situated close to Lahore's Mayo Hospital and is regarded as a historic site. This Chaubara was owned by Chajju Bhagat, who lived during the era of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. He left his business pursuits to lead a life of devotion and renunciation. Subsequently, his followers made his tomb in Lahore renowned as Chajju Ka Chaubara, gaining fame throughout Lahore. During his rule, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, acknowledging the significance of Chajju Ka Chaubara, enhanced its allure by constructing a temple dedicated to Chajju Bhagat, accommodations for travelers, a pond, and a lovely garden. Today, Chajju Ka Chaubara remains a well-known landmark, but now only its ruins are left, located near Lahore's Mayo Hospital.

This Chaubara was located in Lahore and was known as 'Chajju Ka Chaubara'. A well-known saying in Punjabi culture is, 'The comfort of Chhajju's Chaubara surpasses that of Balkh and Bukhara.' Chhajju Bhagat, whose real name was Chhajju Ram Bhatia, lived in Lahore and was a gold trader during the rule of Mughal Emperor Jahangir. After his death in 1640, during the era of the Bhangi Misl chieftains, a temple and a dharamshala were erected on the site of his shop and large tent, which was named 'Chhajju Ka Chaubara.' Maharaja Ranjit Singh later enhanced its beauty by adding new rooms for travelers, a pond, and a lovely garden. Chhajju Bhagat's story is quite unique. Although he was a businessman, he was not particularly interested in commerce and leaned towards renunciation. One day, while walking down a street, he observed a sweeper telling pedestrians to 'move aside' to avoid stepping on the garbage. This struck a chord with Chhajju, leading him to realize that business and spiritual devotion cannot coexist for someone inclined towards renunciation. He entrusted his business to his sons and devoted himself to spiritual practice on a platform. People from distant places began attending his satsang, and his platform gained fame throughout Lahore. The reason for this was simple: Chhajju had given up worldly desires and stepped aside. Entangled in worldly desires, he couldn't do justice to his soul. Even today, the lessons from Chhajju's life hold as much significance for us Aryans as they did back then.

Lala Chhajju Ram's Chaubara emerged as a cultural landmark for the entire city, serving as a haven for Sufi mystics traveling from various regions. This two-story building housed Chhajju Ram's goldsmith shop on the ground floor, while his family lived in the other section. Despite being a goldsmith, Chhajju Ram's extreme honesty limited his customer base, yet he was content with his modest business. Many families in Lahore, including the wives of affluent households, trusted him with their gold transactions. These women, who wore burqas, would remove them upon entering his shop, where a servant would offer them sherbet and a paandaan. Recently, 'Chhajju's Chaubara' has gained attention again. Situated in a corner of Lahore's Anarkali Bazaar, this Chaubara, once a mere proverb, is now the subject of formal research. The Archaeological Department is considering declaring it a protected site. The saying, 'The happiness of Chhajju's Chaubara is neither Balkh nor Bukhara,' has been revitalized by new research. Thanks to intellectuals from a neighboring country, Lahore's Chaubara has been saved from demolition, although it now lies in ruins. Residents of Anarkali Bazaar are questioning how the historic Chaubara, which served Sufi mystics and dervishes during Shah Jahan's era, could face destruction due to a few dissenters. The proverb, 'The happiness of Chhajju's Chaubara is neither Balkh nor Bukhara,' has been echoed in both West and East Punjab for years. It's crucial for the new generation to understand who Chhajju Ram was.

Originally a jeweler, Chhajju Ram Bhatia owned a large house in Lahore's Anarkali Bazaar, where a medical college and hospital are now being built. Generous and spiritually inclined, Chhajju Ram Bhatia regularly donated a tenth of his shop's profits, keeping Chhajju's Chaubara lively with fakirs, dervishes, and saints. Pilgrims from various dargahs and distant temples would rest there. 'Chajju Ka Chaubara' was located on Lahore's Anarkali Road. Chhajju was a prominent jeweler, with his business on the first floor of his two-story home and his family on the second. On the roof, he built 'Chhajju ka Chaubara,' a camp for fakirs where fires were lit, and bhajans, kirtans, and Sufi Sema dances were performed. Chhajju's spiritual devotion led him to spend more time meditating and chanting, dedicating much of his earnings to fakirs, devotees, and the needy. He became known as 'Chhajju-Bhagat,' and people believed visiting the Chaubara brought spiritual peace and comfort, providing food, clothing, and coins for those in need. Driven by curiosity, he sought out the Chaubara, uncovering historical evidence through old records, books, and elders. Lahore is rich in heritage, and the Chaubara's ruins stand near Mayo Hospital. Chhajju Ram Bhatia, also called Chhajju Bhagat, lived during Shah Jahan's reign. His age and birth year are unknown, but he died in 1696 under mysterious circumstances. Legend says he retreated to his ascetic cave in the Chaubara's corner before his death and was never seen again. The Chaubara became a camp for fakirs, who performed the Dhammal dance there, singing, 'Jo Sukh Chajju De Chaubara, Oh Balkh Na Bukhara!' Historical records indicate that Maharaja Ranjit Singh often visited the fakirs and built a temple in Chhajju Bhagat's memory, sending monthly funds from the court for the temple and fakirs. Even today, people visit the remaining ruins every Tuesday and Thursday to pay their respects.

The Shams Shahabuddin Nursing Home is located adjacent to Lahore's Mayo Hospital. The ruins remain. The Mayo Hospital authorities decided to demolish the ruins to expand the hospital. However, after public protests and strong objections from historians and media figures, the demolition decision was postponed. However, all efforts now underway are solely aimed at preserving the ruins. Historian Surendra Kochhar has appealed to the Indian government to intervene, arguing that it is a "heritage asset" and cannot be demolished legally. The ruins of this site in old Lahore have now begun to speak. Imaginary images of the old Chaubara have begun to be created, and a Muslim historian, Latif, has even published these images based on old information.

Next to the temple-versus-dargah, there was a small temple dedicated to Baba Pritam Das, a saint from the Udasin sect. Baba Pritam Das was the one who initiated Baba Bhumman Shah, a famous saint of his era. Baba Bhumman Shah is still honored by the entire Kamboj community in Sirsa, Fazilka, Abohar, Fatehabad, and other regions. It is also believed that during Aurangzeb's rule, two places were given special significance: the tomb of Pir Ain-ul-Kamal and the temple of Chhajju Bhagat. Hospital staff quarters have now been constructed around this notable site. To reach them, one must navigate through narrow paths between these quarters. Despite this, the ruins, situated between Nisbat Road and Railway Road, continue to be a place of worship. Although the days when it was said, 'The comfort of Chhajju is in the courtyard, Oh, Balkh, not Bukhara!' are gone, it is encouraging that Pakistan's social media and some intellectuals have been proactive in preserving Chhajju's name and culture, asserting that it is part of our heritage.